Iron Butt 5000 Logo 2010 Iron Butt 5000 Ride Report – Rider #29 Peter Delean

The scene from my vantage point on the tarmac was surreal. I was at ground level looking up and back at traffic inching along in the right lane of I-94 past my bike which was lying on its left side; back a bit more my riding partner Cameron Sanders was looking over at me as he was stepping off of his bike. To his left a stranger stepping out of a white car was running over to me yelling “I’m sorry! I’m sorry! I didn’t mean to hit you!”

It took me a nanosecond to realize that I had been separated from my bike after being rear-ended by the fellow in the white Camry. Although Cameron had just managed to get out of the way by riding the line separating right and left lanes, I got wedged in between the stopped car ahead of me and the fellow who came sliding in on rain slicked roads.

I was up in seconds. There was no pain, all systems worked. All three of us converged on the downed bike, a newly-farkled 2004 FJR. The driver of the white car’s mouth was still moving but I wasn’t hearing a thing he said. By now the reality of the situation was setting in: months of planning and preparation were now in jeopardy. The bike could be un-rideable in the IB5K rally. My mind raced.

“Let’s get your bike off the road,” Cam said as the three of us lifted the fully loaded FJR. While Cam rolled it over to the side of the road, I picked up the right pannier knocked off in the hit and scrambled to collect the bits of plastic scattered around the lane.

Within minutes a fire truck came by, on his way to the accident a few hundred yards ahead, the reason we had come to a full stop in the first place. “Can I call you an ambulance?” the driver yelled out. “No, we’re O.K.” I answered and waived him on. The Kalamazoo Sheriff’s office was not far behind.

The car driver was still talking. Although my gut reaction told me I should break his nose, he was so deeply apologetic that I had a hard time getting mad at him. I had more important things to worry about: like did the wheels turn, was the steering O.K., were there any leaks, and would the bike start?

Cam and I got the bike on the center stand and tested everything. Amazingly the tires turned, the bike started, and the brakes were fine; the steering worked but I was missing a front turn signal and had no headlights. At roadside in the pouring rain we got a headlight working and duct taped the entire front of the bike to keep the headlight housing from dropping out onto the road.



I knew that if I could make it to Denver there would be plenty of expert help to get things functional again. I didn’t need a dealer to order me parts; it was too late for that. I needed MacGyver, someone who could get things functional with duct tape, binder twine, and a tube of glue.

Off we went, down the road, testing things as we rode. With headsets Cam and I were in constant contact. Other than the obvious damage the bike handled fine, the engine ran as smoothly as ever, and we were going to make it to Denver, come hell or high water in Iowa. I was so determined to take part in the inaugural IB5000 5-day rally that I was ready to pedal it if I had to.

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The Denver Tech Center Marriott was a welcome respite after a day riding the endless Iowa and Nebraska landscape on a bike that kept shedding its duct tape. We immediately parked the bikes and headed inside to get checked-in and registered for the convention. I had envisaged three days of relaxation before the rally, but that had all changed. Work on the bike would start in earnest the Friday morning. It would mean missing the speakers that day but the goal was to pass tech inspection on Sunday at the latest, and getting the bike in shape was the new priority.

After breakfast, I headed out into the parking lot and began undoing some plastic and removing shreds of duct tape. It didn’t take long for MacGyver to come along.

“What'd ya do to your bike?” Mark Reis asked.

“I got rear ended. Headlights are broken.”

“Ya wrecked your bike. You were an ASSHOLE!’ Mark’s subtle nature showed through. ‘O.K. lets take some plastic off and we’ll have a look underneath. I’m going to listen to Higdon’s talk. I’ll be back to check on ya after that.”

Before I could get the side panels off Mark was back out.

“I felt guilty sitting there thinking I should be out here helping you so I left early. Let’s get more plastic off. I need to see where the headlights connect to the bike.”

And so it began, Mark leading me on, cajoling, insulting, yapping, sipping his bottomless Starbucks, and shouting instructions while more plastic parts came off the bike.

“If he’s talking to you he likes you,” his friends would whisper to me. That made taking the abuse a bit easier. None of what came out his mouth could disguise the fact this guy had a big heart.

“I was the morale officer in the navy,” Mark would remind me regularly.

“Not to be confused with morals officer, right Mark,” I would reply.

“He’s catching on,” Mark would tell all who listened.

Before long a small army had gathered and qualified help was forcing me out of head technician role. Jacques Titolo from Montreal had volunteered to rebuild the light housing with all the broken plastic bits I had picked up or that had remained attached to the bike. While Jacques spent the next five hours rebuilding the mounts on the headlights, his partner Jennifer pulled out a socket set, raised her sleeves and got to work as well.

By afternoon the headlight housing, a mixture of plastic, multiple types of epoxy and duct tape, was reconnected to the sub-frame of the bike. Then the front cowling went back on and was attached to the headlight housing by using zip ties.

By supper time, the FJR’s black dash panels were attached and the bike was ready to go. A test of the lights proved successful. It even looked like a bike again. We would be ready for tech inspection, a day earlier than I had expected. I was amazed! It was a total team effort.



“Admit it. You didn’t think we’d have it ready today did you?” Mark prodded.

“When I saw the bike in pieces I didn’t think there was a hope in hell,” I admitted.

“I knew we could do it,’ Mark replied, ‘now you just have to promise me two things. Make sure you’re a finisher. I’ll have guys watching for you in Spartanburg. And second thing, NO DIRT ROADS!”

I shook his hand. “Thanks Mark. Promise.”

“Now my fee: you owe me a Starbuck’s franchise, oh, and one more thing, QUIT BEING AN ASSHOLE.”

I assured Mark his cheque was in the mail.

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It took me many years to realize that I was a visual learner, so when they handed me the full page of written instructions for the odometer test I quickly did my best to visualize the route. Reading the instructions while underway was difficult though not impossible. Luckily I managed to make it back without making a wrong turn.



The tech inspection was passed, on Saturday no less. They seemed mainly interested in making sure the fuel cell was on solidly and that the overflow drain was away from the exhaust. The most exhaustive tech inspection I ever experienced was at the Blackfly rally (Northern Ontario and Quebec) in 2004. Technicians inspected brake pads, tires, lights, fuel cells, fluid levels, and cables. Everything. And if there was anything questionable or on the border of being passable you lined up to have the needed work done. Here you were expected to show up with fresh tires, brakes, fluids, coolant, and a fuel cell so solidly affixed that one could pick up the back of the bike by lifting on the fuel cell.

I was relieved to get the first step over with on Saturday, saving Sunday for the various sign up lines: the camera memory card line, the T-shirt line, the legal line, the video release line, the photo line, and my favorite, the line you get into before you are actually considered in the next line. That allowed for a quick nap on Sunday afternoon while others were outside doing their odometer test and tech inspection.

A four o’clock riders meeting was followed by a 5:30 banquet where riders received their rally packs, including flag and bonus listing. Rider numbers were handed out in reverse order to the IBA number, that is, those with the lowest IBA number (indicating earlier membership) got the highest flag number. I was rider #29, kind of mid pack, Cam was #47 Within minutes of receiving the packs and learning that it would take 1,900 points in the first leg to be on pace to be a finisher, the room had cleared out and people ran to their rooms to start planning.

The first leg was 38 hours long with 50 potential stops northwest and southwest of Denver. The stops were a nice mix of past IBA locations and bonuses used by Eddie James’ Team Strange rallies. I was disappointed the infamous Mother Featherlegs memorial was not listed. I planned a route northwest because that seemed to be where the best points were in relation to the miles that needed to be ridden. That route included Hell’s Half Acre and Thermopolis in Wyoming, Cooke City, Red Lodge, a sign near Absarokee in Montana; at that point I would turn west and head off to Butte and Anaconda, MT to wait for the sun to rise. From there I would turn south to pick up bonuses in Afton, WY and Salt Lake City, UT. If there was any time left there would be a bonus not far from Laramie, WY and three smaller ones in Denver. It was an ambitious route, of just over two thousand miles, one that was sure to wipe me out physically for the second leg.


Map provided courtesy of Microsoft Street and Trips

I debated doing the route in reverse, but timing the bonus in Cooke City along with daylight for the Beartooth Pass seemed like the more intelligent way to go. Either way, I would be arriving in the Butte area by midnight, could grab a room and rest until about 5 AM then get back on the road to collect the daylight only bonuses in Anaconda and Butte. At least that was the plan.

Monday – Day 1

On Monday morning, after a restless night’s sleep, the wait in the Marriott parking lot seemed interminable. Finally at 8 AM Warchild waved his arms signaling the orderly exit of bikes. Past the cheering throngs we headed for I-25 into Denver rush hour traffic. It looked as if most of us were heading north with some brave soles heading into the furnace down south.



Riders spent the first hour negotiating traffic. Things cleared up nicely the further north we went. At the I-80 interchange I watched some riders drop off to pick up the AME Bonus and to head west towards Salt Lake City or Afton. I kept riding north and eventually west to Casper where I caught US 20 taking me straight to Hell. Behind me were the lights of another rider on and ST1300, Joe Zulaski. Going over a rise in the road we could see a thunder storm off in the distance, with lightning strikes every few seconds. The scene was taking place deceptively far away, as we got nothing more than a few drops of rain.

We made it to the Hell’s Half Acre sign, took our 90-point photos of the deep canyon, and kept moving west. We were 331 miles into the trip and the next stop, Thermopolis, was 87 miles away. That meant a gas stop somewhere along the way. Flush with prepaid Shell gift cards I searched a Shell station on the GPS and found one on my route in Shoshoni, WY. Joe and I both stopped for gas at the same station. I had assumed we would be following each other all day, but after the next stop, a big 648 pointer, I wouldn’t see him until we got back to Denver.



From Shoshoni we headed north to Thermopolis, a ride that kept getting better with each passing mile. The road rambled through Boysen State Park with rock cliffs on my right, a river on my left and more cliffs beyond the river. It gave the road a very intimate feel. We went through three tunnels on our way there, eventually locating the statue of the cowboy walking a horse in the downtown district. Many of us converged on the site at the same time.



From the city of warm springs the route led us northwest towards Cody, WY, along HWY 120, a route that was not as scenic as the entrance to Thermopolis, but faster and less busy. Temperature that day was very moderate compared to what others were dealing with on the southern run. Once in Cody, I made a quick right turn onto Chief Joseph Highway, a road I had never ridden. I was now on one of America’s great roads: a smooth, scenic, well engineered ribbon of asphalt that wound its way up and around mountains and canyons. There was nothing to do but sit back and enjoy the ride.

In planning my route, Mapsource did not include this highway, but rather had routed me from Cody through the northeast corner of Yellowstone Park then on to Cooke City because I had kept the ‘seasonal road closure’ option turned on. As far as Mapsource was concerned, this road didn’t exist. By going this way I had just knocked off two hours on my ETA to Cooke City and everything beyond. I wasn’t sure at this point if that was good or bad.

I stopped to take photos at a lookout thinking that I may never come back here again. I loved this road: the vistas, the hairpins, even the free-roaming black cattle sitting on the side of the road. Other riders joined me on this part of the trek, some riding at my pace, others blowing by me as if I had never ridden a twisty mountain road.



Chief Joe ended at the Beartooth Pass. I turned left and headed for Cooke City to take a photo of a four foot statue of a little man with a jacket. About four of us converged on the Miners Saloon on the main street and ran in to take a photo of the wood carved erection standing in the corner of the bar. I was surprised, but it seemed like a bonus that several rallymasters would enjoy throwing into the mix for shock value and quirkiness alone.



At this point in the route I had options. If running behind I could head west for the smoke stack in Anaconda and bigger points in Butte, or continue north to pick up two bonuses just beyond the Beartooth Pass. I opted to head north along the Beartooth, expecting much the same type of road I experienced with the Chief Joseph Highway. What I got was quite different: construction, traffic, and a much more technical ride with more (and tighter) turns, higher altitudes with cooler temperatures, steeper drops and longer climbs. Considering I was 600 miles into the day it felt a lot more like work than the Chief Joe. I remember thinking “I’m glad I’m not doing this at night, or in the rain” Many others weren’t so lucky.



It took a while but we finally reached the red caboose fast food joint in Red Lodge, MT. Several bikes were there, heading in both directions. Some riders approached the town from the east avoiding the Beartooth, temporarily at least. My next stop MNT, worth 138 points, was 30 miles further north on the same road. It was a wooden sign beside a historic stone marker. Some unfortunate riders made the mistake of taking photos of the stone marker instead of the wood sign. I took both to be safe.



For me MNT was turning point in the route. The original plan was to go west to Butte Montana from here, however the original plan called for late arrival, sleep for four or five hours then get in position to pick up the daylight only bonuses at Anaconda and Butte. Here it was 6:40 PM, and Butte was only three hours and a few minutes away, too late for the daylight bonus, and too early to call it a day until sunrise.

So to keep moving I could bypass the daylight only points in Butte and Anaconda, and head counter clockwise to Afton and Salt Lake City for a 1200 mile count that included Yellowstone Park at night, or I could head east toward Devil’s Tower, on a lower-point route that would include an arrival time early enough to pick up the little stuff around Denver, and the dirt road I promised Mark I wouldn’t go on. That mile count was about 900 miles.

Because I knew I had enough points to be well above the finisher’s pace, I opted for the easier, shorter route, avoiding Yellowstone at night in the process. That route would get me in to Denver early so that I could get scored quickly and in bed for a good night’s sleep, which up until this point had eluded me. I had a plan for sleep Tuesday night though.


Map provided courtesy of Microsoft Street and Trips

For now, my route had changed 180 degrees as I started on the long trek southeast following a fellow on a Gold Wing, and Karl Snell on his GS. It was mostly super slab for the next several hours. Karl and I stopped for gas along the way then for sleep in Sheridan, with a 2:30 AM wakeup call. My call in bonus took place at 2:57 AM from Sheridan.

Tuesday – Day 2

The goal was to get to the Tower by sunrise (or a half hour before) to get a photo of myself in front of the Tower. Not equipped with much of a tripod I needed another rider there at the time. Karl and I made it there a few minutes early. We waited for daylight to break before getting the photos at 5:40 AM. Then it was adios and I started heading straight south to Denver. Just leaving the Devil’s Tower road I ducked in behind three deer that nonchalantly hopped across my path.



Along the way, at about 7 AM I started to get very tired. On U.S. 85 I found a rest stop and did my first “Iron Butt Hotel,” that is I found a nice comfy looking shaded picnic table and made it a bed. I kept my helmet on for good measure. I slept about a half hour. When I tried to get off the concrete table my back was so sore I could not move. This is where a video camera of the event could have recorded one of those impossibly funny scenes of someone struggling to get up: feet in the air, scissor kicks, twisting one way, then the other, backing off, trying to get my head up first, trying to turn over to roll for the edge of the table, finally dragging myself to the edge and doing the Fosbury Flop off the table top. I’m sure the truckers had a good laugh. My recommendation is if you really need to sleep on a picnic table, don’t make it a concrete one.

I was happy to get back on Hwy 85. Something about the dark pavement, the golden color of the fields on each side of the road, and the light traffic that was easy on the eye. By 11:00 AM I was approaching the Ames Brothers monument. The road off the interstate leading to the monument was described as 2 miles of washboard, a surface that could wreak havoc with the repair job on my lights. But I needed the bonus points since I backed off on the other route. There were no other riders around when I got there, but there were two big graders smoothing out the road surface for me. That left only 50 yards of washboard to get to the parking area before the pyramid-shaped monument. It was a lot easier on the bike than I expected. I thought of Mark and the promise of no dirt roads. I could hear his voice reminding me I was being an asshole. Sorry Mark, I needed to do it.

The pyramid built in the 1880’s to immortalize the Ames Brothers, Union Pacific Railroad tycoons, stood alone in the tree-less field, at the top of a rise. Writing on the base proclaimed the memorial to be “perhaps the finest in America”. I’m sure many would debate that claim.



Getting back to the interstate didn’t take long and the pilgrimage to Mother Cabrini’s, located in the foothills on the west side of Denver, began. Traffic was not an issue as I made my way to the mountain. This was always one of Eddie’s favorite bonuses because it involved a climb of 373 stairs to get to the top of the Shrine, a twenty-two-foot statue of the Sacred Heart of Jesus erected in 1954. There were a handful of bikes in the lot when I got there at 1:30 PM. It was a hot difficult climb at an altitude I was not acclimated to. There was wheezing involved. There were many names taken in vain before I reached the top.



The photo we needed was of a scene describing the 2nd commandment. Being a lapsed catholic I had no idea what the 2nd commandment was so one of us asked an attendant. “Thou shalt not take the Lord’s name in vain.” Too late! I was beginning to appreciate Eddie’s sense of humor. With points obtained, I took a few other photos from the top of the mountain, including a view of Denver in the distance.



Not far away was the Red Rocks Amphitheatre, the scene of a Rush concert the night before. This was a beautiful natural setting for a concert stage. I obtained a receipt at the visitor’s center but couldn’t resist taking a photo of the big red rocks from the parking lot.



The last bonus stop was another one of Eddie’s favorites, because it invariably ended up being a long wait for a food receipt at the famous Casa Bonita, one of the world’s largest restaurants. I knew from reading past reports that this drove many riders crazy, as the receipt appeared only when the food was delivered. But this time, we only needed “any receipt” from the place; that meant a visit to the gift shop for an inexpensive trinket, bypassing the servers in the process. There were no lineups to get in at that hour of the day so Bob Rippy and I got escorted through the restaurant over to the small gift shop. The lady inside was familiar with the IB5K routine now and pointed out some inexpensive items. I grabbed a tiny bell, bagged the receipt and was gone.

Now it was time to fuel up on Leg 1’s clock before making it back to the hotel. Tanks were filled, drinks were gulped, and it was on to the hotel, sometime around 3:30 PM. I was early, real early, and had time to go up to the room, get cleaned up and organize receipts. Having all that extra time didn’t help much as I still managed to lose points in the fuel log. A clean score would have given me 2796 points, but an error in the name of a city on a gas receipt cost me 13 points. A mental note was made to make sure it didn’t happen again.

The important thing was I had successfully finished the first leg; I was scored, showered, fed, and ready to get a good night’s sleep. On previous nights I put up with the room’s noisy air conditioner and a roommate with a diminished airway capacity. I was getting maybe four hours sleep at night. Tonight I was not only getting to sleep before my roommate Cam made it back to town, I was wearing my ear plugs to bed. Net result: end of problem. I slept soundly until the alarm went off at 4:30 AM.

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Daily summary: Leg 1 2783 pts

Monday Aug 16: Hell’s Half Acre, WY 90 pts
Thermopolis, WY 682
Cooke City, MT 544
Red Lodge, MT 382
Madsen Historical Monument 138
TOTAL: 1836 pts

Tuesday Aug 17: Call in bonus 100 pts
Devil’s Tower 238
Ames monument 198
Mother Cabrini’s Shrine 58
Red Rocks Visitor’s Center receipt 62
Casa Bonita receipt 54
Fuel Bonus 250
Penalty -13

TOTAL: 947 pts


Wednesday – Day 3 Rider #29 Peter Delean

Riders gathered for a 5 AM meeting, where the next list of bonuses was handed out and we learned 9,200 points would keep us on pace to be finishers. They announced the top ten riders, a list that included my roommate Cameron tied for 4th place. By the look on his face I knew he was ecstatic.

This time route planning would be done “on the clock”, so efficient planning would be key. I was well rested and eager to get moving. I perused the rally book and found the four largest bonuses: Phoenix, for a Steve Kafka IB5K pin striping was worth 4912 points, Minneapolis for a coffee mug for 4111 points, the Live Oak Nudist resort in Texas for 2323 points, and a spot in Pennsylvania for 1333 points.

I looked at clusters, and there was a nice one around Atlanta, with close to 1500 points in and around the city to be picked up on the way to Spartanburg. The non-driving bonuses amounted to enough as well. A fuel bonus, rest bonus and two call-in bonuses amounted to 1751 points. Complicating factors included the time zone changes and the loss of two daylight riding hours, and southern heat.

I plotted a route from Denver to Minneapolis down to Atlanta then over to Spartanburg. Many small bonuses lined up so perfectly on the route that I felt I had a route I could live with. I honestly didn’t consider a route from Bob’s Java Hut in Minneapolis to the Live Oaks because I felt there were so many small bonuses lined up on my route that I could make up the difference by riding fewer miles and saving time. I wanted to get the first two days plotted then play it by ear on the final portion of the rally. I entered my coding system to the bonuses along the route then announced to Cam that I was heading out. We shook hands wishing each other a good ride and told each other we’d meet in Spartanburg at the finish. He would leave about an hour after me.


Map provided courtesy of Microsoft Street and Trips

I loaded the bike and headed to Nebraska by 8 AM, back on I-25 north up to I-80 east, then north on Hwy 71 to Scottsbluff and just beyond to the Lake Minatare Lighthouse. The lake looked inviting as it was another blisteringly hot sunny day. From there Alliance, NE was not far off. Carhenge would be the stop at an auto art field; many of us were there taking photos.





The next stop was at the Bryan Bridge historical marker about 145 miles away. I was already 315 miles into the fuel tank, meaning before the next bonus I would be stopping for gas. With my Shell prepaid gift cards, I was planning on stopping at the first Shell station after 400 miles showed on the trip odometer. Shell stations are plentiful all over the U.S. so I wasn’t particularly worried - in a pinch I could use another brand. But on this lonely stretch of Nebraska highway there were no Shell stations, in fact fuel was scarce period.

I had the GPS doing a continuous fuel search and found a Shell station, ninety miles away in Valentine, NE. I was down to two bars on the fuel gauge and wasn’t sure I would make it. In desperation, I cut my speed and ducked in behind a slow moving car to stay in his draft. When I was down to one bar, I opened up the fuel cell valve again and sucked out every last drop of fuel. It went up a notch. Still seventy miles to go but I liked my chances.

The GPS showed gas ten miles off my route, a twenty mile round trip I couldn’t afford to take from a time perspective. I knew it was a gamble to bypass a sure thing, but I also knew I could get at least 40 miles on reserve. The goal was to avoid the countdown timer until I was close to Valentine.

I monitored the wind, out of the west giving me a nice tailwind. Every little bit helped. I was flashing reserve with 49 miles to Valentine. I was confident, but cautious. A steady speed was maintained behind the car. Thirty two miles from Valentine I passed a Sinclair station. I knew none of them had decent receipts so I kept moving. Would I regret that decision?

Well I’m happy to report I did not, riding 460 miles from Denver to the Shell in Valentine. The bike took more fuel than I had ever pumped into it. The receipt was good, although I noticed I had lost an hour already. Just a few miles down the road at the Bryan Bridge historical marker I met Brant Moteelall on his FJR. He told me his bike’s thermometer was reading 108 degrees. We snapped our photos and took off.



People sometimes wonder what runs through a rider’s mind on a long day between stops. Anything and everything. Along the way I postulated that seat comfort is inversely proportional to temperature. Working out the mathematical formula would be an interesting exercise. This was something the motorcycling world needed. I resolved to settle it before the rally was over.



The Clopton historical marker was less than an hour away than the Bryan bridge marker. I took that photo, recorded the details then headed off down Hwy 12 to Niobrara. This was another of Eddie’s favorite places because of the great respect he had for Danny Liska and his first wife – who still lives in Niobrara - both early adventurers back when BMW made dependable motorcycles.



Another rider arrived at the Two Rivers Saloon at the same time I did, Wayne Boyter, the only fellow, American or otherwise, I’ve met who knew how to pronounce my name in French. We talked briefly then I watched him head off. I checked the distance and arrival time to the next stop on my list at a Wal-mart straight north in South Dakota. There was no hope of arriving before 10 pm, so I opted for a stop in Newcastle, NE, the historic marker describing an alleged volcano.

There, Wayne and I were joined by the team of Winterer and Senty. Although our paths had crisscrossed since leaving Denver, my only thought at the time was “how can these guys ride together?” They were like a Vaudeville act. They never shut up. They talked, argued, and jawed incessantly in a comical routine from the time the bikes stopped, through the photo taking up until they got moving again. I didn’t realize at the time they were putting together one of the better 2nd legs and this was just their way of getting through the long days.



From Newcastle, I backtracked a few miles then headed north into South Dakota. I intentionally rode by a 46-point stop in Volin and unintentionally rode by a 51-point bonus in Luverne, MN that I would have stopped for had I been paying better attention. My goal was to try to make it to Zanz before closing or, at the very least, position myself close to Minneapolis for the early morning bonuses at Bob’s Java Hut and Martini Acres at the edge of Willow River State Park.

I was going to be late for Zanz but I wasn’t worried about it because I knew I could pick it up the next day, so I continued along I-90 East, then north on I-35. I stopped about an hour out of Minneapolis in a town called Owatonna, MN. I found a room at the AmericInn across from a 24-hour Holiday gas station. It was midnight local time, and I thought that now would be the perfect time to take a thousand point rest bonus.

I put fuel in one tank of the bike, and pulled out a receipt that revealed a store number only, no address, city or state. Repairable as a gas receipt but two of those as a rest receipt would be unacceptable. So I backed off the rest receipt, grabbed four hours of sleep and focused on getting organized for Thursday morning’s bonuses. I could still grab a rest bonus anytime before midnight on Thursday.

Thursday – Day 4


Map provided courtesy of Microsoft Street and Trips

Traffic was light but steady as I made my way into Minneapolis at 5 AM. The sun rose as I approached Bob’s Java Hut, a prominent location in many of Eddie’s rallies. It was within easy reach of the freeway. Four bikes were already parked out front minutes after 6 AM, the opening time for the bonus. I was greeted by some very enthusiastic people, sitting out on a bench at the front of the shop, who took photos and welcomed me to Bob’s. They just seemed so damn happy and upbeat that I was caught off guard. How could these people be so energized at this hour? Was it the city, the water or something in Bob’s java?



I entered the coffee shop and purchased the coffee mug and obtained a receipt as the bonus required. I held the cup up and looked at it thinking that my entire 2011 Iron Butt Rally entry hinged on me getting this cup back to the finish in one piece, not as simple as it sounded. I carefully wrapped the cup and stuffed the inside as well, then put it in luggage that would be protected in the event the bike fell over. Stories of riders in past rallies who had dropped the cup on the way to scoring ran through my mind. Having already been in one accident the week before I wasn’t assuming the cup was automatically safe. Funny, but in route planning none of these thoughts had crossed my mind.

I hated to leave. These people were so positive and upbeat that even ten minutes with them put a smile on my face for the day. I rode down the street and within minutes I was on the interstate that would take me to the Martini Acres bonus. That bonus was tucked into a residential area in Hudson, WI, less than an hour from Bob’s. The coordinates led me to a treed in driveway where I stopped to see if they really wanted me to keep moving onto the private property. The driveway led to two houses. I drove passed the Martini Acres sign at the first house, then looked around at the second, saw nothing so I turned back. I stopped in front of the first house again and noticed the sign this time, difficult to find hanging from a tree. I approached and got the required photo, filled out the paperwork, then watched another rider go through the same exercise I just went through. It was a good size bonus at over 300 points and in the first two hours of the morning I’d picked up nearly half the required points for leg 2. This was going to be a productive day!



From Martini Acres it was off to Zanz food outlet, another standard bonus location in Eddie’s rallies, requiring a computer generated receipt and a purchase. It opened at 10:30 AM, about an hour later than my ETA, but I would make the stop more rewarding by doing a call-in bonus while waiting for them to open. On the way there I stopped at a Shell station to fill both tanks, a stop that would have little bearing on my arrival time. I was still going to get there too early.

I pulled up to the restaurant and was pleasantly surprised to find some covered parking slips. Out front were some shaded concrete tables that I could do a little work at; I brought my paperwork up to date and looked at the routing for the day on my computer. It was here that I realized I could just make a daylight only stop in St. Louis at the Bridge of Rocks. That would be today’s goal.

After the call in bonus, I kept busy re-packing the bike. At 10:30 I entered the restaurant and told the server what I needed in the way of a timed receipt. She called her manager who got his instruction book out and proceeded to reset the time on the cash registers.

“The guys last night were pretty happy,’ he told me ‘we just never reset them for daylight savings time.” With the clocks reset, I got a 10:34 AM receipt. After getting my food, the manager approached me and asked what kind of rally was going on, and why his place seemed to be a stop every year. “I really like it when the riders come in,” he told me.

With that I headed south to a bonus that I was very interested in. ‘The Day the Music Died’ bonus involved a photo of the memorial at the site of the plane crash in a cornfield near Clear Lake, IA, that took the life of three of rock and roll’s earliest stars, in February of 1959. As I approached, a pair of black rimmed glasses by the road hinted as to what was along the trail. I hopped off the bike and started walking for several minutes along a well worn trail, passing Art Garvin who was heading the other way. Other people paid their respects at the site as well. I took a couple of photos to make sure I had every part of the memorial displayed.





Then a walk back between the rows of corn in the heat, a quick drink, and off to Des Moines, IA, for two bonuses. Along the way I continued working on my theory, imagining what the formula would look like and what the constants and variables would be. Because seat comfort is inversely proportional to temperature, as temperature increases seat comfort decreases. The formula for seat comfort would have to look something like this:


Comfort = k(material constant) x Distance x lean Angle of rider x Layers of clothes
Temperature x (.6 x Weight)

At this stage I thought I would let Tom Austin work out the details.

By 2:15 PM local time I joined Connie Gabrick at the cemetery stone of Eddie’s father, Edmund James. Her next stop was at the Bridge of Rocks in St. Louis, and she asked me if I’d like to tag along for the ride. Because she was a few steps ahead of me I told her to get started and I’ll catch up to her. I still had to do paperwork and grab the second bonus in Des Moines, a photo of Big Daddy’s BBQ joint about six miles away. I joined a couple on a Gold Wing at Big Daddy’s for the required photo of the now closed BBQ place. I got the feeling Eddie knew a lot of food places around the U.S., some of questionable quality.





Back on the road, I was intent on catching up to Connie and her Bat mobile-like Victory Vision. With a gas stop in Ottumwa, IA, I was so far behind her there was no chance of catching up. I followed the divided highway as I cut diagonally across the map for St. Louis. I passed Hannibal, MO, made famous by Samuel Langhorn Clemens, better known as Mark Twain. I was now in familiar territory, roads I had ridden in this year’s Not Superman Rally. At this stage, I was paying particular attention to the sun over my right shoulder, and the ETA which was going to be right at sunset, assuming I didn’t get stuck in traffic. I rode as efficiently as I could, making sure I took no wrong turns and that I stayed in lanes where traffic kept moving. I was going to cut it real close. With the sun in my mirrors, I knew it’s just a matter of time before the GPS’s rolled over to night mode.

I was watching time of day, distance to the bonus, and ETA. In my mirrors the sun was still just above the horizon, the GPS’s were still on regular daylight settings, and I was ten minutes from the site. Traffic kept moving nicely as I got onto I-270 and kept moving briskly east. Seven miles. Five miles. At two miles the GPS’s changed over so I knew the sunset time had been recorded and I had about a half hour to collect the bonus. I exited the freeway and pulled up to the bridge, joining Connie and Bob Wilensky.

“I don’t think you’ll make it,’ Bob says, ‘you’re a bit late.”

“I’ve got a half hour. How far is it?”

“It’s a long walk, better get going.”

I grabbed my camera and flag and walked briskly to the bridge. The bridge was long, very long. The bonus requirement was to take a photo of the historic marker in the middle of the bridge. I was taking photos of everything that looked historical as I passed the middle of the bridge. There were signs in the “middle” of the bridge about 3/4s of the way across to the Illinois side. Once satisfied I had all the photos I started to walk back to the Missouri side. Car lights approached from behind as I walked west on the bridge. It was a police car.

“Are you parked at the far end?” the officer asked me.

“Yes,” I answered.

“You better get moving, we’re about ready to lock it up.”

I started jogging in the heat, with full gear, minus my helmet. I couldn’t run all the way, so I jogged and walked, jogged and walked towards the headlights sitting there waiting for me. Finally I got to the far end, noticed a sign that says they lock the gate a half hour after sunset, and joined Connie and Bob still chatting by my bike.

“Did ya get it?”

“Got it!” I was extremely pleased. The timing could not have been more perfect. I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do next, although I knew I needed a cold drink.



We all took off. I headed west thinking I would go to Rolla for a 200 point bonus there, but I really wasn’t sure that was the direction I wanted to head in. So I pulled over in Westport, MO a suburb of St. Louis and found my way to a 24-hour Shell station not far from a Hampton Inn. The rest start was about to begin, just before 9 PM. It was time to check in, have a shower, and go over the game plan for the final 36 hours.

They let me park right in front of the hotel, so I left pretty much everything on the bike and covered it over. Inside I got some laundry done, grabbed a few cold drinks, got on the computer to route, check e-mail and read the daily reports. I read that some riders were out after hitting animals at night. By midnight I was in bed with a 4 AM wakeup call.

Friday – Day 5


Map provided courtesy of Microsoft Street and Trips

Before 5 AM on Friday I was back on the road, this time heading for Metropolis, IL, to get a photo of Superman. I had rearranged the route to include an area I was already familiar with. I wasn’t taking any chances; I was determined to get to the finish on time. With the photo of Superman in the camera, I headed over to another small bonus, less than an hour from Superman south of Calvert City, KY: mile marker 1 on Scale Rd. just off my route to Nashville, TN.





After the mile marker photo I got back on the Interstate and headed to Jack's BBQ in Nashville. Jack's opened at 10:30 AM, and I joined a slew of riders who had been waiting patiently for the place to open. I can’t tell you how good that award-winning BBQ smelled. But all I could have was a cold drink and a load of ice. With a receipt tucked away, it was off to the Jack Daniels visitor’s center in Lynchburg, TN.



At the Jack Daniels distillery we were expected to have someone take a photo of ourselves standing beside the life size photo of Jasper Newton Jack Daniels. This was a busy place so finding a young lady to take my photo was no problem. By noon hour CT I had the photo on the card and I was on my way to Atlanta. Along I-75 I hit some interesting geography going through Chattanooga and Dalton. There were some good steep climbs and extended descents. I stopped at a Shell in Dalton before the skies opened up as I neared Atlanta. I rode through the rain, expecting it to end in a short time and sure enough, within ten minutes it was over, and I was back in the heat.

I found my way to Eddie’s grave joining Bob and Connie in the Crestlawn Cemetery at 4:46 ET. Next to the Bob’s Java Hut and the rest bonus, this was the biggest point bonus of my second leg at 650 points. It was a stop that pretty well everybody needed to make, even those who went to Phoenix and Live Oaks, and with good reason. This was going to be Eddie’s rally before his untimely demise. It was important all of us tried to get here. After paying my respects and getting the photo of the bench engraved with Danny Liska’s words, we decided to head over to the Varsity restaurant for a small 74-point bonus.



Pulling into the covered auto stalls at the Varsity I saw the similarity with Zanz in Minnesota the day before. Eddie should have been born a few years earlier. He loved those covered drive-in restaurants, like the old A &W restaurants I remembered as a kid. We ordered dinner, a very small but inexpensive cheeseburger then made our way out of town in heavy Atlanta traffic. I was convinced now Eddie had questionable taste in food or an iron stomach. Those were among the worst burgers I had ever tasted.

Getting out of Atlanta at rush hour was going to be fun. Bob was looking for a gas station, and Connie wanted to head counter-clockwise to Rockford, AL, so I dove into traffic on I-285 and somehow made my way south on I-85, aiming for the post office in Gay, GA. This was a pretty standard bonus, pull up and get the photo.



After a fuel stop at a Chevron along the way (I had Chevron gift cards as well) I saw Bob go riding by. I caught up before we got to Kadie the cow in Columbus, GA. Apparently the Best Buy occupies the site of a former Dairy and that explained what the cow was doing there in the parking lot. On our way in and out of town we passed many small towns, all heavily policed either entering or leaving. The Valentine was working overtime.



Less than 100 miles away, Bob and I reached the bonus at the Rosa Parks library in Montgomery, AL. This was a bit of trick bonus because we were asked to locate the historical marker that didn’t actually mention Rosa Parks. This was her block, in front of her library. But on the back side of her historical marker we found the one thing that didn’t mention Rosa. It was a Hank Williams “the Alabama Troubadour” historical marker. I thought “what an insult to Rosa: diminishing Rosa’s marker by piggybacking Hank Williams on her special part of the world.” They could have put his marker across the street, or a block away, or better still in Nashville.



While there Connie pulled up on her Vision. She was miffed.

“You guys, don’t go to Rockford, you’ll never find the bonus. Don’t waste your time. There is no super secret celebrity. I had a local helping me and we couldn’t find anything.”

Connie was really upset after traipsing around in a dark cemetery with a stranger, but I knew from past Butt Lite rallies that the ‘super secret celebrity’ in Rockford, AL was none other than Fred the dog. Before leaving on this leg, I double checked by googling Rockford and sure enough, Fred the dog’s grave showed up.

“It’s Fred the dog,” I volunteered.

“What do you mean ‘Fred the dog?’ I was looking for a dog’s grave?”

Connie was really disappointed like the air just got sucked out of her. She had no idea she was supposed to be looking for “Fred the dog”, although the bonus code clue was FRD.

I looked at the clock. It was now just after 8 PM MT, 10 PM ET. I just remembered there was a call in bonus between 3 and 9 PM ET. “Isn’t there a call in bonus today?” I asked Bob and Connie.

“Ya missed it,” they said in unison.

“You’re kidding me.” I missed the easiest 126 points on the menu. With my conservative route I needed every point I could get.

There was no time to dwell on it. Bob and I needed to get to Rockford to find the super secret celebrity that Connie couldn’t find. Bob followed as I illuminated the road with full HID high and low beams. The lights were outstanding on the two lane country road.

We pulled into Rockford at about 9:30 PM local time. It was dark. We turned left at the only major intersection in town, went in a block then turned right onto a side street. The house on the street looked familiar from my google search so I instinctively stopped, but Bob kept riding up to the next small street which was where the GPS wanted us to stop. He turned and came back.

“GPS says it’s a block up.”

“This house looks familiar; the grave has to be around here.”

We continued our discussion as a local resident stumbled out of his mobile home to check out the commotion. He was in jeans, no shirt, bearded, with scruffy looking hair. It looked like he was having a bad day. I’d seen this type before, in one of those reality cop shows.

He started walking towards us. Before we said anything he opened up to us. “I’ve been good, I swear, I ain’t dun nuthin’ wrong. Look I’m not armed.” He lifted his arms. He made a passionate plea to avoid definite incarceration.

Bob and I looked at each other and thought the same thing: the guy thinks were cops, and we’re here to arrest him. By that time I was off the bike with a flashlight, walking towards him with my helmet flipped up, showing a headset with Bluetooth system that flashed blue. There was nothing there to dispel the notion that we weren’t cops. The booze on his breath dispelled any notion that he’d been good.

“Look we’re not cops, we’re looking for Fred the dog’s grave site.” It almost seemed silly to be talking about a dog’s grave when the guy was on his knees begging us to not arrest him.

He looked over to his right but he wouldn’t actually point in the direction. The fellow wasn’t buying anything I said. “I’ve been good,” he continued on, giving us more reasons we shouldn’t be arresting him.

“We don’t care, we’re not cops, just point to the grave and we’ll leave you alone.”

“You’re not cops?”

“No we’re not.”

“He’s over there in the grave yard.”

Bob and I got back on the bikes and rode up to the next small street corner, hopped off, and with flashlights were able to find Fred the dog’s grave. We laid down the flags took our photos and went back to the bikes.

“We gotta get outa here,’ Bob said, ‘let’s do our paperwork somewhere else.”

We rode down the small street and into the convenience store parking lot at the main intersection.



We had a good laugh, and an even bigger one as another rider went in shortly after. We wondered if he had to deal with the same welcoming committee. After a cold drink, we discussed where we would be heading. After missing my call in bonus I thought that I should try for one more - a daylight only bonus on the top of Mount Mitchell north of the finish.

Bob agreed to ride along with me. We were 320 miles from Spartanburg, 370 from MIT which would leave a 100 mile ride to Spartanburg. GPS’s said arrival at MIT would be about 5:30 AM with the finish in Spartanburg at 10 AM, meaning we had to be back on the road by 8:30 AM heading for the finish.

In Rockford, those numbers didn’t look bad. We set out from the convenience store, heading north passed Talladega, onto I-20 towards Atlanta. In Atlanta, listening to the GPS put me on the wrong highway north. Here’s what it sounded like:

GPS: Keep right on I-75
Keep right on I-75 (I’m in the right lane heading for I-75)
Keep left on I-85 (did she just say I-85 as I head right on I-75?)
Recalculating… (Yes, she did say I-85. Bitch!)

Despite a quick turnaround it took at least an hour to catch up to Bob who didn’t miss his turn. From I-85 we headed up a smaller highway that took us more directly to Asheville. The roads were wet, there were sporadic rain showers, it was extremely dark; roads were becoming more twisty with larger elevation changes the further north we went, and I was finding the ride difficult.

We made it to Asheville and stopped at a stop sign. Bob pulled up and we discussed timing again.

“I’m not sure if there is a gate at the park entrance, or if we can make it to the top of the mountain to wait for daylight. If there is a gate at the bottom, how long will it take us to get to the top?”

I had no answers. But we were putting forth some good arguments to drop the bonus.

“Do we really need the points?”

“I’m O.K.”

“So am I, let’s turn back to Spartanburg.”

And with that reasoning, we decided that the risk/reward ratio just wasn’t favorable enough to go after this bonus. It was certain to be a slower trickier ride at night on wet roads with unknown roadblocks. Forget it. It was better to be a finisher than a hero. Why risk it at this stage?

We were the first to arrive at Spartanburg, at 6 AM. Trust me there was no one from the rally around at that time. We went inside the hotel and got them all moving. There were however a few diehards up at that hour, like John Frick who greeted me as I pulled in.

“Welcome back. How was your ride?”

“Fine,’ I said, ‘I should be a finisher!”

“Did you hear about Cameron?”

“No. What happened?” My heart sank a notch. I have a strong suspicion what is coming next.

“Cameron’s O.K.,’ John reassured me, ‘but he hit a cow in Nebraska Thursday morning and he’s in hospital.”

“You’re kidding.” I remembered riding by those big black cows in Nebraska.

As casual as John could make the accident sound, I knew I needed to check for myself. It was too early to call a hospital. First I had to get myself organized, check bonuses, collect receipts, and make sure the gas log was properly filled out, then get scored. Jacques and Jennifer got me settled at a desk in their room so that I could work in peace. I was one of the first ones scored and was extremely pleased that I didn’t lose a point at the table this time. With a score of 9,944 points I was safely over the finishing requirements. My only real mistake was not doing Friday’s call in bonus, a mental lapse. That would have given me a score for leg 2 of over 10,000 points which was a decent score for a conservative route. Next time I will write things down on my windshield so that I don’t forget.

After getting scored and checked into my room I called my riding partner Cameron, who had been airlifted to the trauma center in Sioux City, IA after hitting the cow near O’Neill, NE early Thursday morning. He answered his cell phone.

“Hey Cam, how ya doing?”

“Peter?” That was the first clue. I listened carefully to his voice. I could tell he’d been hit hard. His responses were slow and I could sense he was searching for words. I promised I’d call after the dinner and awards.

It felt strange sitting at the finisher’s banquet with our Canadian contingent, including our honorary Canadian Bob Rippy, knowing our friend, the guy who got me interested in long distance riding, was lying in a hospitable bed, a DNF in a rally the two us wanted to use as a stepping stone to the 11-day IBR. There was a touch of sadness and guilt in my eyes as I received my finisher’s plaque for a 28th place finish; what should have been elation felt hollow, as if the job wasn’t complete.



After dinner in the bar we passed a phone around and several of the riders talked to Cam. I think he enjoyed knowing that we were thinking about him and how much we would have enjoyed having him there with us in Spartanburg.

********************************

On the way home the next day I had time to think about the rally in general and my performance in particular. The rally was extremely well organized in all facets with an incredible cast of volunteers and staffers. The GPS coordinates were all precise. The instructions were straightforward. The scoring was fair and precise. The food was good and well timed. Every rally rider should have a chance to participate in this kind of event. There is great respect and camaraderie among contestants.

As for my performance, that needs a little work. I think part of the problem with this rally from a rider’s standpoint is that all “finishers” were in fact winners. By giving all finishers a guaranteed entry into the IBR many of us rode very conservatively, and I’m putting myself out there as poster boy for this group. Several times I caught myself wondering if I had enough points to be a finisher then backed off a more aggressive route, or lopped off a bonus because I really didn’t need it, not because I couldn’t get it. This was a different mindset for me. The incentive to be a finisher was high; the incentive to be a top ten finisher was not so great. I know other riders thought this way as well. Imagine if only the top ten finishers got a guaranteed IBR entry. The competition would definitely have heated up.

Sometimes you stare at a map and think it’s impossible to get from one area to another in a day. I have to learn to think bigger. I can cover more ground than I think is possible. If anything this rally taught me that it is possible to get from Minneapolis to Texas in a day. Vertical drops on the map are easier than horizontal miles. Don’t be afraid to crisscross the map. Mapsource timing is remarkably accurate.

I’ve got to get serious about a hydration system that I can drink from at will. By Friday I finally caught on to the fact that wearing my Camelbak was better than having it attached on the bike, but inaccessible as I rode. Filling it up with ice in the morning gave me cold water until late in the afternoon. It was a real treat having a cold drink as I rode down the highway.

I was happy with my pre-rally preparation. I worked out 5 days a week doing three different exercise routines to get into shape physically; I felt very strong out there. I went over all IBR and Team Strange events to get familiar with the possible bonus locations. My reasoning is that rallymasters are creatures of habit. They have their favorite spots; my job was to get to know all of them. This helped a great deal also (ask Connie).

This was my first real multi-day rally. I know IBR staff encouraged riders to pace themselves, to save something for the second leg. I can now say that a five day rally with one checkpoint is more of a sprint than a marathon. If you save yourself for the finish like I did you under-perform on other days. I say go ahead, burn it up. Five days goes by real fast. Save yourself for day 8 in the IBR. Let her rip on a five-day rally.

Riding home alone through North Carolina, Virginia, and West Virginia I asked myself if it was all worth it. Is it worth putting yourself out there in harms way, and for what exactly: a plaque, a license plate backer, a pat on the back? With my buddy lying in a hospital bed, his wife of two weeks at his side a thousand miles from home, it was very easy to get cynical about the whole thing. But for me rallies are always voyages of discovery - traveling to places I might never get to otherwise, and self-discovery. That in a nutshell is what it’s all about for me.

Heading north through West Virginia I perked up when I unexpectedly saw that I would be riding by a perennial Iron Butt Rally bonus location - the New River Gorge. I rode into the parking area and got off to check out the bridge and viewing deck, snapping a photo of the bridge. Preparation for the 2011 IBR had officially begun.



Daily Summary – leg 2 9,944 pts

Wednesday Aug 18

Lake Minatare Lighthouse, NE 79
Carhenge, NE 118
Bryan Bridge, NE 173
Clopton Marker, NE 112
Two Rivers Saloon, Niobrara, NE 426
Newcastle, NE 133

TOTAL: 1041 pts


Thursday Aug 19

Bob’s Java Hut, MN 4111 pts
Martini Acres, WI 303
Call in Bonus 1 125
Zanz, Mankato, MN 194
Day the Music Died, IA 121
Edmund James gravesite, Des Moines, IA 214
Big Daddy’s, Des Moines, IA 78
Bridge of Rocks, St. Louis, MO 317

TOTAL: 5463 pts


Friday Aug 20:

Rest Bonus 1000 pts
Superman, Metropolis, IL 89
Scale, Mile Marker 45
Jack’s BBQ, Nashville, TN 181
Jack Daniel’s Visitor Center, TN 319
Eddie James, Atlanta, GA 650
Varsity, Atlanta, GA 74
Post Office, Gay, GA 114
Kadie the cow, Columbus, GA 89
Rosa Parks, Montgomery, AL 172
Fred the dog, Rockford, AL 207
Call in Bonus 0

TOTAL: 2,940 pts

Saturday Aug 21:

Fuel Log Bonus 500 pts

TOTAL: 500 pts